Cutting die for ornamenting shoeupper parts



1938. s. E. ROSENBERG 2,

CUTTING DIE FOR ORNAMENTING SHOE UPPER PARTS Filed Jan. 25, 1937 4 Sheets Sheet l 1 120% KM fimi w V wu u mmgmu w May 24, 1938. 3 ROSENBERG 2,118,110

CUTT ING DIE FOR ORNAMENTING SH OE UPPER PARTS Filed Jan. 25, 1937 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 May 24, 193s. s. E. ROSENBERG ,110

- CUTTING DIE FOR ORNAMENTING SHOE UPPER PARTS Filed Jan. 25, 1957 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 //x I w @zUZfi/mqy 1% WHIMMQW f.

May 24, 1938. s. E. ROSENBERG CUTTING DIE FOR ORNAMENTING SHOE UPPER PARTS 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Filed Jan. 25, 1937 Patented May 24, 1938 FATEN'E QFFIQE CUTTING DIE FOR ORNAMENTING SHOE- UPPER PARTS 14 Claims.

This invention relates to cutting dies for use in cutting an ornamental edge on shoe-upper parts such as Vamps or wing tips. The invention includes improvements in cutting and punching dies such as that illustrated and described in the U. S. patent to Brock, No. 1,772,335. Vamps and wing tips for shoes customarily consist of pieces of leather having a U-shape, the inner edge being the onewhich shows on. the finished shoe. Hence, the inner edge of the U is usually ornamented before the piece is stitched to the other pieces to form a shoe upper. This inner edge is bell-shaped, the upper end of the bell being toward the toe of the shoe when the vamp or wing tip is incorporated in a shoe. In general, the shape of the inner edge of a vamp or wing tip varies somewhat for different sizes or widths of shoes.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a cutting die which is adjustable to cut ornamental edges on vamps or wing tips for shoes of dilferent sizes and of correspondingly different Widths.

The invention also relates to dies which, in addition to cutting an ornamental edge, also punch or more rows of holes near the ornamental edge, these holes serving to add to the ornamentation of the part. For regularity of design, the holes in any such row are mually spaced apart uniformly. In the case of Vamps, the upper end of the bell shape formed by the inner edge of the vamp may be widened or narrowed for shoes of different widths. According to the invention, means may be provided to adjust the spacing of the punched holes adjacent to the upper end of the bell so as to maintain such spacing approximately. uniform when the width of the upper end of the bell is increased or diminished.

For a more complete understanding of the invention, reference may be had to the following description thereof and to the drawings of which- Figure l is a plan view of a cutting die embodying the invention.

Figure 2 is a plan view of the same, showing the parts in diiierent positions.

Figure 3 is a section on the line 3-3 of Figure 1.

Figure 4 is a section on the line 44 of Fig- 50 ure 1.

Figure 5 is a section on the line 55 of Figure 2.

Figure 6 is a. section on the line 5-45 of Figure 3.

Figure '7 is a plan view of two wing tips of difierent sizes, superimposed on each other to show the different contours of the ornamented edges.

Figure 8 is a plan view of a modified form .of the invention.

Figure 9 is a fragmentary plan view of the die shown in Figure 8, the parts being in different positions.

Figure 10 is a section on the line ifi-JQ of Figure 9.

Figure 11 is a section on the line Hll of Figure 8.

Figure 12 is a plan view of another modified form of the invention.

Figure 13 is a fragmentary plan view of a portion of the die shown in Figure 12, on a, larger scale.

Figure 14 is a section on the line I l-l4 of Figure 13.

The cutting die illustrated in. Figures 1 to 6 inclusive may comprise a base 26 on which are mounted a number of blocks 22, 24, 26, 28 and 3B. In the embodiment illustrated, the block 22 is fixed. The blocks 24 and 28 are pivotally attached to the block 22 as at pivot points 32 and 34 respectively. The blocks 25 and 38 are pivotally attached to the blocks 24% and 28 respectively at their pivot points 33 and 38. Thus, while the block 22 is immovable with respect to the base 25!, the other blocks are slidable on the base and swing about their respective pivot points. Each of the blocks is provided with a groove to receive and confine a. portion of a flexible blade 4!! which, as indicated in Figure 1, is shaped to the configuration of the ornamental edge which is to be cut on a shoe-upper part such as a wing tip or vamp. Cooperating with the block 22 is a smaller fixed block 52, these blocks alternating the mid portion of the blade 49. Adjacent to this midportion of the blade are two portions which are supported and confined by the blocks 24 and 28 respectively. The end portions of the blade 40 are supported and confined by the blocks 26 and 36 respectively. Thus, the shape of the blade, and hence the shape of the cut made by the blade, is determined by the positions of the movable blocks on the base, the natural shape of the blade being modified by movements of the movable blocks.

The cutting die illustrated in Figure 1 is intended for cutting wing tips for shoes. Wing tips are customarily made by cutting out U-shaped pieces from skins or hides, such pieces having a shape similar to that shown in Figure 7. The outer margin of this piece of leather is to be lasted over the edge of the last when the upper is pulled over the last in the making of a shoe. The

mental cut, as is evident from Figure 7, is in the V shape of a bell, the top of the bell being toward the toe or forepart of the shoe. In cutting wing tips for shoes of different sizes and widths, the arms of the U are made longer for shoes of larger sizes than for shoes of smaller sizes. Furthermore, for shoes of greater widths, the spacing between the arms of the U is greater than for shoes of lesser widths. While shoes of each size may be made in a variety of widths, in the great majority of shoes the larger sizes also have greater widths, so that as a general rule the wing tips having the longer arms also have a greater spacing between the arms. This relationship is clearly illustrated in Figure '7 wherein a pair of wing tips are superimposed so that the outlines of the ornamental edges can be directly compared. As shown, a wing tip 44 for a relatively large sized shoe overlies a wing tip 45 for a small er sized shoe. The arms of the U-shaped piece of leather forming the larger wing tip 44 are longer and more widely spaced than the arms of the 'U-shaped piece of leather forming the wing tip 46. These two'changes in the contour are made possible by the arrangement of the movable blocks shown in Figure 1. Any suitable means for adjusting the positions of the movable blocks may be employed. As shown, a pair of toggle arms 50 and 52 are employed for adjustably moving the blocks 24 and 28 in their pivots. A second pair of toggle arms 54 and 56 are employed for adjustably moving the blocks 26 and 3B. The arms 50 and 52 are pivotally attached to a nut 50 through which is threaded a portion 62 of a rotatable shaft. Thearms 54 and 56 are pivotally attached to a nut 66 through which is threaded a portion 68 of the same shaft. This shaft may be rotated by a knurled finger-piece I and may be held against axial movement as by a notched plate I2 which fits between a flange I4 and the forward end of the finger-piece 10. In

' order to obtain the desired relative rates of adis also determined by the lengths of the toggle arms, the arms 50 and 52 being shorter than the arms 54 and 56. These various members are so designed that, as the blocks 24 and, 28 swing toward each other, the blocks 26 and 30 swing away from each other, these relative movements producing the outlines shown in Figure 7. Figure 1 shows the movable blocks in position to cut a wing tip for a shoe of large size. Figure 2 shows the parts in position for cutting a wing tip of smaller size. Theblocks 2B and 30 may be provided with suitable slots 18 and 80 in which ride screws 82 and 84 respectively which limit the movement of the blocks in either direction. The screws 82 and 84 are mounted in the base 20.

In addition to cutting an ornamental edge on the wing tip by means of the knife 40, it may be desired to ornament the marginal portion of the wing tip adjacent to the edge by a pattern of punched holes. To this end, a suitable number of punches 80 may be mounted on the various tended.

blocks which support portions of the knife 40. Thus, when the portions of the knife are adjustably moved with the respective supporting blocks, the corresponding punches 90 are also moved by the same amounts. lhe pattern of the punched holes in the mid-portion of the wing tip may in clude a group of holes made by punches mounted a stripper plate I88, these plates being supported in the usual manner by posts I02 having their lower ends resting on springs I04 so that the plates may give when pressure is brought to bear against the work from above.

Figures 8 to 11 inclusive illustrate a modified form of the invention particularly designed for cutting ornamental edges on Vamps. These cuts are bell-shaped and vary in width according to the width of the shoes for which they are in As indicated in Figure 8, the die includes a base I IE on which are mounted a pair of slidable blocks H2 and H4. These blocks are guided by a guide rail H6 so that they slide toward or from each other. Each block has a slot H8 in which rides a stationary screw I25) to limit the travel of the blocks. In addition to the blocks H2 and H4 which slide toward and from each other, pivotally attached blocks I22 and I24 are provided, the block I22 being pivoted to the block IIZ as at I25, the block I 24 being pivoted to the block II4 as at I28. Additional pivoted blocks I30 and I32 may also be provided, these blocks being pivoted respectively to the blocks I22 and I24 at the points I34 and I36. Each of the six blocks thus far described is provided with a slot in which a portion of a flexible knife I46 is suppo-rted'and confined, the adjusted shape of the knife being determined by the positions of V the several blocks. The blocks are adjustably moved by any convenient mechanism such as a toggle device I42 operated by a threaded portion I44 of the shaft I46 to move the blocks H2 and I I4 toward and away from each other. Another toggle device I50 is operated by a threaded portion I52 of the shaft I 46 to swing'the blocks I22 and I24 about their respective pivots. The swinging movements of the blocks I22 and I24 also cause swinging movements of the blocks I39 and I32 which are pivotally attached thereto, the movement of the latter. blocks being influenced by the knife I43] which extends from each bloc to the next adjacent block and which has a considerable degree of stiffness. A pair of abutment elements I56 and I58 are provided to limit swinging movement of the blocks I30 and I32 in one direction.

As shown, the die may be provided with a series of punches I60 which are mounted on the several blocks and extend in a line following the configuration of the knife I40. As the blocks H2 and H4 are adjustably moved away from each other, it is evident that the space between the adjacent end punches on these blocks will increase. In order to avoid an excessive spacing between these adjacent punches, an additional punch may be inserted between them when the blocks H2. and H4 are moved away from each other. This additional punch I62 may be mounted on a carrier I64 as indicated in Figure 10, the carrier being pivoted as at I66 so that a Figure it can be rocked forward to move the punch I62 to an inoperative position. Figure 10 illustrates the punch in its operative position ready for use.

1 shows the punch in its idle position.

Figures 12 to 14 inclusive illustrate mechanism by which the uniformity of spacing of thepunches can be better preserved during the adjustive movements of the knife-supporting blocks. Figure 12 illustrates a die having a base HQ on which are slidably mounted a pair of blocks I12 and I74, these blocks being movable toward and from each other to vary the width of the forward portion of the bell-shaped cut made by a knife I'IB which is supported by the blocks E12 and I14, other portions of the knife being supported and confined by swingable blocks I and I82, the latter being hinged respectively to the blocks I12 and I14 as at I84 and I86. A number of the punches I at the mid-portion of the ornamental edge are individually mounted on lever arms I92, M4 and I96 on the block I12, and 260, 202 and 204 on the block I14. It is obvious that, while three such lever arms are shown on each of the blocks I12 and I14, a greater or lesser number of such arms may be employed as found convenient or necessary. The arms I92, I94 and I96 are pivoted individually as at 2!!! on the block I12. The arms 200, 202 and 264 are likewise pivoted at the points 2 I6 on the block H4. The arms in each of these groups are connected by plates 22!! and 222 respectively. The plate 220 is attached to the three arms of its group at the pivot points 224, 226 and 228 respectively. In like manner, the plate 22 is attached to the arms of its group at the points 239, 232 and 234 respectively. It is thus evident that, if any one arm of either group is rocked about its pivot, the connecting plate will cause the other two arms of the group to rock accordingly, but the actual amount of rocking movement of each arm will differ since the points of attachment of the several arms to the plate are at diiferent distances from the respective rocking axes 2H3 or 2I6. The inner two arms I96 and 260 are notched at their ends as at 240 and 242. Within these notches are a pair of lugs 244 and 246 respectively. When the blocks I12 and I14, carrying the groups of arms, are adjustably moved away from each other, the arms: of one group move away from the arms of the other group. Since the lugs 244 and 246 catch in the notches 240 and 242, the arms I96 and 200 are forced to rock on their respective pivots. This rocking movement of these arms counteracts the tendency to increase the spacing between the punches I9Il on these arms. Owing to the connecting plates 22!) and 222, the other arms of each group are also forced to rock on their pivots but to lesser extents, these rocking movements also tending to counteract partially the spread effect of the movement of the blocks on which the arms are mounted. Thus the six punches I98, which are connected on the rock arms, are gradually spread apart so that the spacing between the successive punches carried by these arms is maintained approximately uniform, that is, excessive inequality of spacing is avoided, that being true for any position of adjustment of the blocks I12 and I14.

While the rock arms are shown in connection with a single pair of swinging blocks I80 and I82, it is evident that the same features could be employed with swinging blocks such as are illustrated in Figure 8.

If desired, a suitable scale 25!] may be mounted on the base I'Ifi to cooperate with an index 252 on one of the blocks to indicate the size of shoe corresponding to the particular adjustment of the blocks of the die.

It is evident that Various modifications and changes may be made in the details of structure shown and described without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention as defined in the following claims.

I claim:

1. A cutting die comprising a base, a blade having the approximate shape of the cut to be made, a series of blocks on the upper face of said base supporting and confining said blade to determine the shape thereof, means maintaining said blocks against said face, said blocks including a pair slidable on said face and confining portions of said blade symmetrical with respect to its mid-point, said blocks also including a second pair slidable on said face and confining portions of said blade adjacent respectively to said symmetrical portions, and means for adjustably moving said blocks on said base.

2. A cutting die comprising a base, a blade having the approximate shape of the cut to be made, a series of blocks on the upper face of said base supporting and confining said blade to determine the shape thereof, means maintaining said blocks against said face, said blocks including a pair movable on said base and confining portions of said blade symmetrical with respect to its mid-point, said blocks also including a second movable pair pivotally attached respectively to the first said pair and confining portions of said bladeadjacent respectively to said symmetrical portions, and means for simultaneously adjusting the positions of all said blocks.

3. A cutting die comprising a base, a fiexible blade having the approximate shape of the cut to be made, a series of blocks on said base sup porting and confining said blade to determine the shape thereof, said blocks including a pair movable on said base and confining portions of said blade symmetrical with respect to its midpoint, said blocks also including a second pair movable on said base and confining portions of said blade adjacent respectively to said symmetrical portions, and means for simultaneously moving one pair of said blocks toward each other 4 and the other said pair away from each other.

4. A cutting die comprising a base, a flexible blade having the approximate shape of the cut to be made, a series of blocks on said base sup porting and confining the blade to determine the shape thereof, said blocks including a pair movable on said base and confining portions of said blade symmetrical with respect to its mid-point, said blocks also including a second pair pivotally attached respectively to said first pair, and means for adjustably moving said blocks on said base.

5- A cutting die comprising a base, a flexible blade having the approximate shape of the cut to be made, a series of blocks on said base supporting and confining the blade to determine the shape thereof, said blocks including a pair movable on said base and confining portions of said blade symmetrical with respect to its mid-point, said blocks also including a second pair pivotally attached respectively to said first pair, and means for simultaneously adjusting the positions of all said blocks.

6. A cutting die comprising a base, a flexible blade having the approximate shape of the cut to be made, a series of blocks on said base suptions of said blade, a second pair of movable '7- A cutting die comprising a base, a flexible blade having the approximate shape-of the-cut to be made, a pair of movable blocks on said base supporting and confining the respective end porblocks on said base supporting and confining portions of said blade adjacent to said end portions thereof, and means for moving all four of said blocks to vary the shape of said blade.

8. A cutting die comprising a'base, a flexible blade having the approximate shape of the cut to be made, a pair of movable blocks on said base supporting and confining the respective end portions of said blade, a second pair of movable blocks on said base supporting and confining portions of said blade adjacent to said end portions thereof, and means 'for moving all four of said blocks to vary the shape of'said blade, said lastnamed means including a pair of togglearms for each pair of blocks and means for actuating the toggles simultaneously.

9. A cutting die comprising a base, a flexible blade having the approximate shape of the out to be made, a pair of movable blocks on said base supporting and confining the respective end. por

tions of said blade, at second'pair of movable blocks on said base supporting and confining portions ofsaid blade adjacent to said end portions thereof, and means for moving all four-of said blocks to vary the shape of said blade, said means comprising a rotatable shaft having two screwthreaded portions, a pair of nuts on said portions and toggle devices connecting said nuts respectively with said pairs of movable blocks.

1.0. A cutting die comprising a base, a flexible blade bent to the approximate shape of the cut to be made, a block fixed on :said base having means for confining and supporting the midportion of said blade, a pair of :movable blocks adjacent and pivotaily attached to said fixed block slidable on said base, a second pair of movable blocks remote from said fixed block and pivotally attached respectiveiy' to the first pair of m0vable blocks, each of said movable blocks having means for confining a portion of said blade, and means for simultaneously adjusting all said movable blocks to vary the shape of said knife.

11. A cutting die comprising a base, a flexible blade having the approximate shape of the cut to be made, a series of blocks supporting and said blockssupporting and confining the mid-portion of said .blade, said blocks also including a second pair pivotally connected respectively to the first pair and swingableon said base about their respective pivots, and means for adjustably moving all said blocks on said base.

12. A cutting die comprising a base, a blade having the approximate shape of the cut to be made, a series of blocks supporting and confining said blade to determine the shape thereof,

said block including a pair of blocks slidable in 1 straight paths toward and from each other, said' blocks supporting and confining the mid-portion of said blade, said blocks also including a second pair pivotally connected respectively to the first pair and swingable on said base about their re spective pivots, and means for moving the first mentioned pair of blocks toward each other and simultaneously swinging the second pair of block away from each other. a

13. A cutting and punching 'die comprising a 7 base, a flexible bladehaving the approximate shape of the cut to be made, a series of blocks supporting and confining said blade to determine the shape thereof and movable on said base to adjust the shape of the blade, spaced punches,

on said blocks in a row at one side of said blade and following the configuration thereof, said series of blocks including a pair supporting and confining the mid-portion of said blade and movable toward and from each other on said base each other.

14. A cutting and punching die comprising a base, a flexible blade having the approximate shape of the cut to be made, a'series of blocks supporting and confining said blade, said blocks being movable on said base to vary the shape of the blade, a series of punches arranged in a row at one side of said blade and following the configuration thereof, and means for individually supporting a group of said punches adjacent to" the mid-portion of said blade, said last-named means including a pivoted arm for each punch of the group and means for rocking the arms simultaneously to change the spacing between the punches thereon in response to adjustive move-" ment of said blocks.

- STIG E. ROSENBERG. 

